Spectacularly crowning a crag above the
wooded Teifi Gorge, Cilgerran is among the most picturesque
castles in Wales. Naturally protected by steep drops
on two sides, its position was an obvious site for a fortress
in an area hotly disputed by Welsh Princes and Norman Barons.
Cilgerran is also forever associated with the abduction
in 1109 of Nest, the Welsh 'Helen of Troy', by a besotted
Owain, son of the Prince of Powys, an act which set all
Wales aflame.
Aerial view (CADW)
The earliest stronghold here was probably
founded in 1108 by the Norman adventurer Gerald of Windsor,
but was taken and retaken several times during the next
century. Between 1223 and c.1240, therefore, the Anglo-Norman
sons of William the Marshall raised a mighty half circuit
of fortifications to defend its vulnerable southern approach.
These are dominated by two great round towers, a popular
feature of castles in war-torn 13th century Wales, built
to defend the castle's vulnerable side. These towers are
special, a triumph of the fortress-builder's art. Their
outward facing walls are much thicker than those within
and, while their inner faces have windows, their frowning
outer faces are broken only by arrow slits. Marshal's efforts
bore little fruit, for the castle was apparently derelict
within 50 years. Its fortunes revived in 1377 when Edward
III ordered repairs to counter a threatened French invasion,
and it was in the wars again during Owain Glyndwr uprising
in the early 1400s.
Eventually falling into romantic ruin,
the castle has inspired artists for centuries and later
became one of Wale's first tourist attractions, much favored
by Victorian visitors who sailed up by boat the river Teifi
- long famous for salmons and coracles - from Cardigan.